Once upon a time…. Between world wars I and II the western part of Slovenia (then part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia) was Italian territory, according to the Treaty of Rapallo. To defend the rest of the country and capital Ljubljana against the Italians a defense line consisting of bunkers, tunnels and forts was built in the lush forests and mountains between the west of Slovenia and the centre of Slovenia, from north to south. This fortification system is now known as the Rupnik Line, named after Slovenian general Leon Rupnik who led the fortification works.
The Rupnik Line was never really used. When the Germans invaded Slovenia in 1941 the vast majority of the defense line wasn’t ready yet. General Rupnik probably wouldn’t have regretted it. During the Second World War he collaborated with the Fascist Italian and Nazi German forces.
Nowadays you can hike and ride along the fortification system. Recently I spotted a brand new sign that pointed the way to the Rupnik Line. In the village of Suhi Dol, 25 kilometres from Ljubljana, my adventure started. I was on an expedition to the underground fort on top of Goli Vrh (962 metres).




